Ascent of Denali on 2018-05-31| Others in Party: | Elyse Ping Medvigy
Dave Ohlson
Adam Storck
| | Date: | Thursday, May 31, 2018 | | Ascent Type: | Successful Summit Attained | | Motorized Transport to Trailhead: | Airplane | | Peak: | Denali | | Location: | USA-Alaska | | Elevation: | 20310 ft / 6190 m |
Ascent Trip ReportWest Buttress.
-The weather was constantly against all forecasts, thank the gods
-The weather was good most days with some storms weathered
-Conditions of the Corners during ascent was shit: very icy with a gaping crevasse mere meters from the climbing route
-Conditions on the upper-mountain were pristine: aside from a few weather concerns, the climbing route was immaculate for an ascent
-Fixed lines were in acceptable condition with a few questionable sections
-Fixed pro up 16 ridge was frequent and the team was able to skip many placements due to overkill
-The summit headwall was adequately protected with fixed pro
-The summit ridge had a few exposed sections without fixed pro
-The descent was mostly uneventful with better conditions at the corners than on the ascent
-Heartbreak Hill is a son of a bitch
-Get to the airport before 3pm for the best chance for same-day exfil.
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| Summary Total Data | | Total Elevation Gain: | 13100 ft / 3992 m | | Quality: | 10 (on a subjective 1-10 scale) | | Route Conditions: | Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb | | Gear Used: | Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Snowshoes, Tent Camp | | Nights Spent: | 16 nights away from roads | | Weather: | Snowing, Frigid, Windy, Clear
Changing conditions daily | | Ascent Statistics | | Gain on way in: | 13100 ft / 3992 m | | Route: | West Buttress | | Start Trailhead: | 7210 ft / 2197 m | | Time: | 14 Days | | Descent Statistics | | Time: | 2 Days |
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