Ascent of Denali on 2018-05-31

Climber: Nicklas Anthony

Others in Party:Elyse Ping Medvigy
Dave Ohlson
Adam Storck
Date:Thursday, May 31, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Airplane
    Elevation:20310 ft / 6190 m

Ascent Trip Report

West Buttress.
-The weather was constantly against all forecasts, thank the gods
-The weather was good most days with some storms weathered
-Conditions of the Corners during ascent was shit: very icy with a gaping crevasse mere meters from the climbing route
-Conditions on the upper-mountain were pristine: aside from a few weather concerns, the climbing route was immaculate for an ascent
-Fixed lines were in acceptable condition with a few questionable sections
-Fixed pro up 16 ridge was frequent and the team was able to skip many placements due to overkill
-The summit headwall was adequately protected with fixed pro
-The summit ridge had a few exposed sections without fixed pro
-The descent was mostly uneventful with better conditions at the corners than on the ascent
-Heartbreak Hill is a son of a bitch
-Get to the airport before 3pm for the best chance for same-day exfil.

Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:13100 ft / 3992 m
    Quality:10 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Snowshoes, Tent Camp
    Nights Spent:16 nights away from roads
    Weather:Snowing, Frigid, Windy, Clear
Changing conditions daily
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:13100 ft / 3992 m
    Route:West Buttress
    Start Trailhead:7210 ft / 2197 m
    Time:14 Days 
Descent Statistics
    Time:2 Days 

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