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Ascent of Monte Rosa on 2018-07-11

Climber: Tom Milliard

Date:Wednesday, July 11, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Monte Rosa
    Location:Switzerland
    Elevation:15203 ft / 4633 m

Ascent Trip Report

We started the hike on Sunday, carrying a tent etc, only to find out that in the Zermatt area all camping is now forbidden. This meant a change of plan and a stay in the Monte Rosa Hutte (53CHF), which means a very long hike and altitude gain to reach Dufourspitze. We started at 0315,and made decent pace to the crevasse field at around 3300m. In the early hours, this is no problem, but on the return it's quite soft. There are 2 routes up Dufourspitze, the ridge way, which is exposed and quite technically challenging (a lot of time spent at 4500m) or the 'couloir' route. As I write this, that route is not advised, as stone fall has cut all the ropes there to aid ascent. Our time to the summit was around 7 hours, at least 1.5 hours spent of the final ridge. Returned exhausted to the hut! Perfect weather all the time, excellent visibility 360°
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Hut Camp



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