Ascent of McMillan Spire on 2018-07-08

Climber: Marcus Peinado

Date:Sunday, July 8, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:McMillan Spire
    Elevation:8000 ft / 2438 m

Ascent Trip Report

Mountaineers trip. There were snow patches above 5200 feet and mostly solid snow starting at the 6200 foot notch. We camped behind the notch at 5800 feet at the standard camp site (snow free). Occasional cairns and some route finding led us to the outflow of the glacial lake at 5500 feet. From there, the route went straight up toward the snow finger that leads to the col between West McMillan Spire and Inspiration Peak. The last few hundred feet below the col are moderately steep (about 40 degrees), and the snow was fairly hard in the morning on the way up (much softer once the sun started shining on it). The class 3 West Ridge was snow free with lots of loose rock.
trailhead to camp: 8 hours
camp to summit: 4 hours
summit to camp: 3 hours
camp to trailhead: 7 hours
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:8800 ft / 2681 m
    Total Elevation Loss:8800 ft / 2681 m
    Round-Trip Distance:16 mi / 25.8 km
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Bushwhack, Stream Ford, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
    Nights Spent:1 nights away from roads
    Weather:Pleasant, Calm, Clear
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:8100 ft / 2468 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 7400 ft / 2256 m; Extra: 700 ft / 213m
    Loss on way in:700 ft / 213 m
    Distance:8 mi / 12.9 km
    Route:West Ridge
    Start Trailhead:600 ft / 182 m
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:8100 ft / 2468 m
        Loss Breakdown:Net: 7400 ft / 2256 m; Extra: 700 ft / 213m
    Gain on way out:700 ft / 213 m
    Distance:8 mi / 12.9 km
    End Trailhead:600 ft / 182 m

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