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Ascent of Mount Cruiser on 2018-06-16

Climber: Sean Albert

Date:Saturday, June 16, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Cruiser
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:6104 ft / 1860 m

Ascent Trip Report

Noel and I crashed at the TH and woke at 4am, started moving down the trail around 4:45am. It was cool and cloudy so we made it to Flapjack Lakes pretty quickly. Not many campers on an early Saturday morning but it was packed on the way out. We started to hit a few snow patches half way to Needle Pass and had continuous snow and easy steps up to the pass, I'm sure way better than later in the summer when its more melted out... The Sawtooth ridge-line is very cool, looks like there is a lot of climbing in the area, saw a juvenile bear in the basin too.

From the pass we scrambled up Beta mostly staying right and noticed a rap anchor a little more than 30M up from the notch, the scrambling eased after this anchor to the summit. We took the short right gully down with one big step at the start then traversed high to a longer gully and series of benches. Descending this gully brought us to a snow finger and moat, we moved over a little snow to the 4th class gully below the GIANT chock stone. We roped up here, damp mossy rock made the start feel a little harder than it probably was. Belayed off the anchor below the chock stone. We took the left cannon hole route beside chock stone, pretty tight squeeze so we had to take off our packs, the climbing up from the first anchor in the gully is much easier, the chimney/hole is just awkward.

We moved over to the South nose of the summit block. I brought my rock shoes, glad I did because I was a little more right than what must be the standard route and the pro was pretty limited. I saw a bolt to the left but skipped it because I was to far right and headed straight up to the two bolt modern anchor. Brought up Noel and we took turns climbing to the summit with a belay. The climbing is 3rd class and easy past the anchor, but VERY exposed!

One single 60M rope rap down the steeper West side from the modern anchor brought us to the boulders above the chock stone. Another single rope rap on skier's left of the chock stone put us in the 4th class gully below the chock stone, and then a final single rope rap put us on the snow finger at the start of the gully. Ran into three other parties, on our way back to Beta peak. One rap off the tree down to Needle Pass. Saw some webbing around the tip of Needle peak, looks like a fun climb! We descended down into the basin, I realized I forgot my pole up at the pass so I raced back up while Noel ate lunch, and it was gone!! Someone took it! I glissaded the entire way down the second time because I was tired. We organized gear and headed for TH. Made it back around 6:45, 14 hours C2C. I brought a small rack, 4 or 5 cams, 4 draws and it was plenty since there isn't many places to use the gear, at least where I went... Olympic National Park is a pretty special place.
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