Ascent of North Palisade on 2018-06-04

Climber: Lou Hibbard

Date:Monday, June 4, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:North Palisade
    Elevation:14242 ft / 4340 m

Ascent Trip Report

Climbed in 2 days with Evan B. Did the Unotch + chimney variation. Climb beautiful but more committing than I expected. Day 1 hiked to above Sam Mack meadows near the glacier. A cold bivy for me. Evan had a tent. Next morning got up at 3:30 AM. Solo'd the Unnotch to save time. Chimney pitches had some ice but able to climb around them. Perhaps a little early in the year but that made the bergschrund much easier. Upper part of the mountain had snow in places. Top felt hard leading in my mountain boots. Was worried about time as routefinding a little tricky in places. Down went much better and quicker. No ropes stuck on rappel thankfully. Then the long hike out the same day. Onsighted all pitches - led most.

Hit a rock on road down and blew a tire.
Never saw a soul all day. On a Sunday.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:6242 ft / 1902 m
    Round-Trip Distance:19 mi / 30.6 km
    Route:Unotch coulior + chimney variation
    Trailhead:Glacier Lodge - parked there  8000 ft / 2438 m
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Rock Climb, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Bivouac
    Nights Spent:1 nights away from roads
    Weather:Perfect bue skys - low wind

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