Ascent of Sahale Peak on 2016-08-23

Climber: Vladimir Oster

Date:Tuesday, August 23, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Sahale Peak
    Elevation:8680 ft / 2645 m

Ascent Trip Report

We arrived Sat evening and camped at the Eldorado TH. Left the Boston basin TH 5:30am. The trail is steep and we had to use branches part of the way. Most stream crossings were easy, the last stream crossing up at the glacier plateau was the most difficult, but still negotiable without getting wet. The glacier is fairly naked, but we didn't have any problems negotiating the crevasses. There is one spot where we had to walk right above a crevasse, should take care in this section (not more than 100 yards). The ridge is mostly snow-less, with the exception of a short block of snow just before the ascent to the summit block scramble. We reached the summit block around 12:30pm. There were several parties ahead of us, so we had to wait as the summit block is fairly small. The weather turned, and we had intermittent cloud coverage around us. The scramble to the summit is easy but exposed, I placed a couple of tricams but it wasn't really neccessary. We rappelled from the summit block to the south. The rappel was 30m, and we had to down-scramble a few more meters to the talus field. It is possible to descent with a shorter rope as there are intermediate rappel stations, or one can down-climb. The Sahale glacier has a large horizontal crevasse in the middle. We had no trouble crossing it, but even if the snow bridge disappears, the gap is jumpable. The descent to Cascade pass via Sahale arm is very scenic. From Cascade pass to the parking lot the gradient is very low, we were basically running. Arrived at the parking lot around 5pm, got a ride to the TH to pick up our car. Fabulous trip.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Rock Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles

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