Ascent of Maglić on 2018-05-14

Climber: Brian Friedrich

Others in Party:Laura Friedrich
Date:Monday, May 14, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
    Location:Bosnia and Herzegovina
    Elevation:7828 ft / 2385 m

Ascent Trip Report

We spent 2 days in the area, the first being a weather day (thunderstorms) where we caught up on some work while staying at Antik - a terrific B&B and restaurant near Foca. Our mountain day was much more pleasant - generally blowing clouds with high winds. We found the road up from Tjentišta to be bumpy, but perfectly manageable for a 2WD vehicle. There was a gate and friendly national park guard who greeted us about half-way to the trailhead (for our vehicle and the two of us on a day trip the entrance fee was €8.20 - also ensure you have your travel documents). Our next stop was a few km later for a 50m walk to a waterfall viewpoint that our hosts at Antik mentioned - it's a super excursion, so worthwhile in that way. We then drove on and parked at Lokve dernecišta (c.1630m) and followed the well-marked trail through mixed forest and across alpine meadows leading to the imposing W face and related towers. Being an early season ascent, we found significant sections of snow as we neared the mountain. Generally, this made for quick travel up as the snow was perfect for kickstepping. Where there wasn't snow, the meadows had a high quantity of alpine flowers (mainly crocuses), as well as many large snails that we needed to avoid. The route is certainly no more than YDS2 when dry, but we found a steep, relatively narrow gully still choked with winter snow fairly low down that we decided to bypass via an exposed YDS3 scramble directly up some moderately firm rock for about 30m before we traversed left and rejoined the main route. Once out of the easy scrambling that followed was a long and moderately steep snow face leading to the saddle between Maglic and Mali Maglic). We bagged the Montenegrin summit first and then headed across to the Bosnia-Herzegovina highpoint. On the descent, the only tricky part was when hit the exposed off-route scramble we made on the way up to bypass the steep snow gully. As a brief rain spell made the rocks we'd ascended very greasy, we opted instead to cross the gully and tied in to our 30m half rope and belayed one another - in addition to the nasty runout, a thinly covered, deep moat existed at both ends of the crossing. After this, the boot skiing began in earnest, quickly followed by the easy-on-the-knees meadow and forest walk back to the car. All in all a wonderful trek in a lovely setting.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:4730 ft / 1440 m
    Extra Gain:1125 ft / 342 m
    Round-Trip Distance:6.8 mi / 11 km
    Route:W Face
    Trailhead:Lokve dernecišta trailhead  5348 ft / 1630 m
    Grade/Class:Class 2-3
    Quality:8 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Road Hike, Maintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Rope, Ski Poles
    Weather:Drizzle, Cool, Very Windy, Partly Cloudy
10 mins of rain otherwise blowing clouds
Ascent Statistics
    Time:3 Hours 
Descent Statistics
    Time:2 Hours 30 Minutes
Ascent Part of Trip: Maglic (0 nights total away from roads)

Complete Trip Sequence:
1Maglić2018-05-144730 ft / 1442 m
2Mali Maglić2018-05-14 
Total Trip Gain: 4730 ft / 1442 m    Total Trip Loss: 4730 ft / 1442 m

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