Ascent of Mount Shuksan on 2018-05-05

Climber: Eric Gilbertson

Date:Saturday, May 5, 2018
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Shuksan
    Elevation:9131 ft / 2783 m

Ascent Trip Report

I drove up Friday night to the south side of Shuksan, up FR 1152 towards the Shannon Ridge trailhead. We encountered snow about 0.5 miles before the trailhead at 2,500ft. After getting stuck in a snow patch and digging out for 30 minutes, we succeeded in clearing a route forward, and were able to drive another 30ft to a more continuous snow patch were we spent the night.

We got up at 3am and found Greg sleeping in his car nearby. We all three started hiking up at 3:30am, and had to hike for around a mile to 3,000ft before we could start skinning. Birkan felt sick and turned back, while Greg and I continued up. We skinned up to the crest of Shannon Ridge, then kicked steps up to the next ridge. Here we ski traversed across a steep snow slope below a cliff, then followed skin tracks up to the Sulphide Glacier. It was crowded with ten other skiers all going about the same pace as us.

By 10:30am we reached the base of the summit pyramid, and ditched the skis. It was too steep and icy for everyones liking. From here I cramponed up to the summit, and enjoyed the view. The downclimb was slow, and I reached the skis around noon.

Clouds were approaching, and distant peaks were beginning to be obscured, so we knew the weather was closing in. We skied some excellent corn, then mushy snow, all the way down to the trees, and had fun tree skiing back to the edge of snowline. We hiked back to the car by 2:45pm. On the drive out, the summits were socked in the clouds, so it was good we had an early start that day.

Link to full trip report and pictures.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:6631 ft / 2021 m
    Route:Sulphide Glacier
    Trailhead:2500 ft / 762 m
    Route Conditions:
Snow on Ground, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Skis, Ski Poles

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