Ascent to Matterhorn-14200 on 2017-09-12
|Others in Party:||Kevin Kent|
|Date:||Tuesday, September 12, 2017|
|Ascent Type:||Unsuccessful - Turned Back|
| Motorized Transport to Trailhead:||Ski Lift|
|Point Reached:||Matterhorn - 14200|
| Elevation:||14200 ft / 4328 m|
| Remaining Elevation:||492 ft / 150 m (100% left to go)|
Ascent Trip ReportKevin and I left our bivy at 4:45 am and were at the base of the Hörnligrat just before 6, just in time for it to start lightly snowing. We soloed much of the route and made it to the Solvay Shelter by about 10:30am. By this time the wind was blowing pretty good and visibility was limited, but we decided to persevere up towards the summit. We encountered very hostile conditions on the upper part of the mountain, with howling winds, blowing snow, frigid temps, iced over fixed ropes, and unstable, powdery snow on terrifyingly exposed terrain. We turned around at 2pm about 400 feet shy of the summit, knowing full well that it was going to take just as long to descend as it did for us to ascend. After dozens of rappels and route finding hiccups, we reached the base of the route at last light and commenced the death march all the way down to Zermatt, where we arrived at 11:45 pm. Full value day!
Descending in the late afternoon after turning back 400 feet shy of the summit. (2017-09-12). Photo by David Alexander.
Click here for larger-size photo.
|Summary Total Data|
| Quality:||10 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)|
| Route Conditions:||Road Hike, Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb|
| Gear Used:||Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Bivouac|
| Weather:||Snowing, Cold, Windy, White-out|
| Start Trailhead:||Bivy at Base of Iron Stairway |
| End Trailhead:||Zermatt |
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