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Ascent of Mount Emerson on 2017-10-08

Climber: J Thornton

Others in Party:Barry. T and J we met at the base.
Date:Sunday, October 8, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Emerson
    Location:USA-California
    Elevation:13204 ft / 4024 m

Ascent Trip Report

Southeast Face Watergoove Grade II 5.4. Lead the first two 5.4 pitches with a 100' Twin rope doubled to 50' lead length, which worked perfectly as there is a nice belay ledge half way up the initial 100-foot Class 5 groove with good cam placements (HB 2.5, Metolius 4, others possible). Placed one pro (medium small Stopper) on first pitch, none on second until top belay (medium Hex, Slung horn). Soloed rest of route. The twin rope weighs 2.8 lbs so kept our load light. On our descent of the standard S Face Gulley we down-scrambled some short Class 2+ sections. We stayed to the descending far left of gulley. I enjoyed the descent, its not bad and not that long, has awesome views of surroundings, and I have done much worse. The ridge is fantastic Class 3 with lots of exposure and several sharp knife edges all on solid rock.
After the initial Class 5, the majority of the route is consistently Class 3 (some Class 4 and short 5.0), with a lesser proportion of Class 2.
You will get a nice view of the south aspect of 'Hump', from the summit.
If you end up getting back down to the trail west of Loch Leven Lake (at bottom of the descent gulley) and have to hike from there down to car with head lamps, the trail down the rock slabs and short cliff bands might be hard to make out in the dark, between LLL and the part of the trail where one headed up to base of the climb - especially if you have never hiked that section before.
We had warm wx for early October. 40 degrees at trailhead at 7 AM, 45 degrees on summit at 3:30.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:4200 ft / 1280 m
    Grade/Class:5.4, Grade II
    Quality:9 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
Rope
    Weather:Pleasant, Calm, Clear
Perfect, blue sky
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:4200 ft / 1280 m
    Route:SE Face Watergroovy
    Start Trailhead:9004 ft / 2744 m
Descent Statistics
    Route:South Face Gulley



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