Ascent of Sahale Peak on 2017-09-16

Climber: Liz Mack

Others in Party:Nick
and Jackie
Date:Saturday, September 16, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Sahale Peak
    Elevation:8680 ft / 2645 m

Ascent Trip Report

Climbed this with Boston. Getting to Sahale camp was smooth sailing. Filtered water at the camp then roped up for the glacier. Pretty icy for one section then made a big "z" to avoid crevasses. Crossed one snow bridge that was narrow but solid. Headed up the talus to the Sahale summit. Finished the climb on the eastern side. Some went up the awkward chimney/crack, but I took an easier route to the right. The summit was fairly crowded. We debated if we had time to go for Boston as well and decided to give it a try.

Downclimbed the summit block and headed over to the ridge traverse. Very exposed, but fun. Usually could find enough solid holds to feel comfortable although there's definitely loose rock. Took the first ramp to views of the Boston Glacier. What snow remained was really icy. This traverse over to the summit block was the loosest section. The scramble up to the next ledge was also pretty slidey. From the ledge to the summit was actually quite enjoyable. The rock felt solid and the moves were straightforward. The left slanting chimney was fun and the class four move to the final scramble was airy but solid. Huge sense of relief to be on the summit. Amazing views.

Three steep rappels later we were back on the icy loose traverse and on our way to Sahale. Half of us decided to climb the 20 ft or so back to Sahale and rap from the summit while the others down climbed. Sun was setting as we rapped. The rest of the descent was straightforward. We set one ice screw on the glacier because we were worried about someone slipping on the ice in the dark, but after many boots had crossed it during the day, the ice layer was more broken up than when we crossed it in the morning. Back to the cars at 1 am. 19 hour day...
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Exposed Scramble, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope
    Weather:clear, but a little smokey
Ascent Part of Trip: Sahale + Boston (0 nights total away from roads)

Complete Trip Sequence:
1Sahale Peak2017-09-16 
2Boston Peak2017-09-16 

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