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Ascent of Mount Fernow on 2017-08-20

Climber: Paul Tuck

Date:Sunday, August 20, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Fernow
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:9249 ft / 2819 m

Ascent Trip Report

Basic Alpine Climb with Mountaineers.
Followed the Sean Albert GPS track but stopped at Fernow.

Started at Phelps Creek Trail (8:30AM), took a right on Leroy Basin trail to the camp below Mt Maude/7FJ. Followed the Creek up to the ridge (~7600ft). Followed the ridge west towards the buttress, there is an extremely loose "trail" down to the snowline marked with cairns.

Put on crampons for the VERY steep 1000' snow and rock descent down to the first basin below gloomy glacier. Ascending and descending the north side of this ridge was the crux of the climb. Continued to the second basin at 7000' right at the base of Fernow (4:00). There is lots of places to camp here on soft grass.

Left camp 6AM and summitted at 9AM. Mostly boulder fields and class 3 rock, approaching class 4 at some points. Patches of snow here and there did not need crampons (could have gone around them but they were nice breaks from the boulders).
Descended the climbing route (Back at camp 12:00, at the car 6:30PM)

Brought crampons, ice axe, poles, helmet and scramble rope/kit
Did not need rope
High chance for rockfall, bring your helmet.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:7000 ft / 2133 m
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Open Country, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
    Nights Spent:1 nights away from roads
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:7000 ft / 2133 m
    Distance:22 mi / 35.4 km
    Route:Southwest Slope
    Start Trailhead:Phelps Creek Trailhead   2249 ft / 685 m
    Time:2 Days 
Descent Statistics



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