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Ascent of Mount Hood on 2017-05-28

Climber: Joe Merlone

Others in Party:Michael Merlone
Date:Sunday, May 28, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Hood
    Location:USA-Oregon
    Elevation:11239 ft / 3425 m

Ascent Trip Report

Climbed May 28th, 2017 with Mike. The plan was to climb the standard South Side route with a guide. We flew to Portland Friday night, and rented car. Was easy to get out of town, and drive out to Government camp was beautiful. We got some awesome views of the mountain on the way. Amazing mountain, really an ultra prominence. There are no other peaks remotely around. We met our guides on Saturday morning (Timberline mountain guides), and did gear check and skill training at the ski resort. The day was super hot at lower elevations and not much wind, good foreshadowing for the climb. The group looked fairly strong, but we were worried who we would get roped with as there was some differences in ability. We got an early dinner and laid down to sleep around 9pm, I slept more than expectd. We were up @2am, and made it quickly to base of mountain @2:30 for the snow cat ride. Alot of fun, and more solo groups climbing up the ski resort than I expected. Started up the mountain in only boots, there was good solid crust, and put on crampons after about 45min of climbing. Wind was non-existent and weather was warm. We moved quickly up to Hogsback, where we put on harnesses and roped up. There was quite a bit of traffic already going up to the pearly gates so our guides elected to traverse to the old chute. The lower slopes were pretty easy climbing, but I was surprised by the steepness of the slope for the last section through the chute. We didn't have much trouble. Once we reached the saddle, it was easy traverse across the ridge to the summit. We summitted just after sunrise. Views were awesome, but limited due to a pretty signifcant inversion. Mt Saint Helens was easily viewed, but could just barely make out Rainer. I was impressed with beauty of Mt Jefferson, may have to add that one to the list someday. Took a few summit pics, and wasn't a big fan of some of personalities on top. One European woman was unimpressed by our ride in the snow cat,. and told us we were "Cheating". It took me alot to hold my tounge. Descent was via the same route. My legs started to get a little gassed down the descent of the old chute, but once the angle leveled out I was fine. The descent down below devil's kitchen was easy. I really wanted to try a glissade, but our guide discouraged, due to snow conditions. The last bit of descent down at the ski area was actually really hard on my legs, the snow had warmed up so much it was a slush fest. A successful climb, and Mike was definitely stoked. I easily convinced him to climb Rainier next year with me. We had lunch at the Timberline lodge after showering at the hotel. Monday was the labor day holiday so we spent the day in the area. Voodoo donuts and Powell's books in the moring (I didn't want to leave), and then hiked Multinomah falls in the afternoon (with included hike of the ridge and other waterfalls). Amazing trip, we had a blast and I achieved state high point number 28.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Guide



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