Ascent of The Tooth on 2017-07-14

Climber: Connor McEntee

Date:Friday, July 14, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:The Tooth
    Elevation:5604 ft / 1708 m

Ascent Trip Report

The south face of The Tooth is a pretty popular and aesthetic route, and we chose it to cut our teeth on our first multi-pitch alpine rock climb. This far into the summer, much of the snow was gone and could for the most part be avoided if desired. Doing this on a Friday afternoon, we got lucky and discovered as we reached Pineapple Pass that we had the entire route to ourselves. Several parties had climbed in the morning, but the last of them was just rappeling down.

As is standard, we did it in 4 pitches. I led the first and third. I basically went directly up the first pitch rather than meander around to the right to follow the 5.4 route all the way up. The second pitch is quite short but has a couple of fun moves as it traverses back and forth. Our placements did result in a fair bit of rope drag. The third pitch is really soft, and I would call it Beckey class 4. There is maybe one ten foot low 5th climb to get below the headwall and the 4th pitch. My partner led this one up a 5.7 crack and caused my heart to skip a beat when he took a bad lead fall. Fortunately, he had clipped into an abandoned friend, but he still hit a ledge and bounced. He came out unscathed though and proceeded to send the pitch. After poking around for a few minutes, it was still unclear to me what the 5.4 route was up the final pitch to the summit.

The rap down was fun. All of the anchors seemed pretty solid and did not need to be improved. We decided to rap down from Pineapple Pass as well. There were no rockfall issues, and it didn't seem bad. It's unclear to me why some advocate not rappelling down after the snow has melted out.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:2950 ft / 899 m
    Total Elevation Loss:2950 ft / 899 m
    Round-Trip Distance:7.1 mi / 11.4 km
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Bushwhack, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
Rope, Ski Poles
    Weather:Pleasant, Calm, Clear
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:2710 ft / 826 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 2470 ft / 753 m; Extra: 240 ft / 73m
    Loss on way in:240 ft / 73 m
    Distance:3.3 mi / 5.3 km
    Route:South Face
    Start Trailhead:Alpental Parking Lot  3134 ft / 955 m
    Time:4 Hours 19 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:2710 ft / 826 m
        Loss Breakdown:Net: 2470 ft / 753 m; Extra: 240 ft / 73m
    Gain on way out:240 ft / 73 m
    Distance:3.8 mi / 6.1 km
    Route:South Face
    End Trailhead:Alpental Parking Lot  3134 ft / 955 m
    Time:3 Hours 13 Minutes
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Connor McEntee
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

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