Ascent of Sahale Peak on 2017-07-09

Climber: Patty Cokus

Others in Party:Noel Howe
Jared Pearce
Date:Sunday, July 9, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Sahale Peak
    Elevation:8680 ft / 2645 m

Ascent Trip Report

TR to come. Great one day trip with Noel and Jared (team BS) with Boston the main objective and tagging Sahale as neither Noel nor I had before. Very first time for me ever in the area. ...

slept at TH, up st 2am, walking st 3. Cascade Pass TH, up Sahale Arm, Sahale Glacier, scrambled around Sahale to bypass (8:15am I think), traversed the narrow exposed ridge (sometimes left / right / au cheval) found the ledge leading down to Boston Glacier no problem. Short traverse with gaping crevasse below. Dropped extra stuff to Easy transition off the snow onto rock. Wentnright on ledge to where we determined definitely not the way, looked at what seemed the weakness and decided to scramble up unroped. Got to the point where we thought we were att the offeidth chimney-ish crack and figured time to get out the rope. Got a nice cam placement (smaller than red, maybe a green?) plus a big nut just above it that rattled but held pretty well. Noel lead since he didn't have a backpack and it was awkward to start then ledges for feet outside of the crack. Getting started was definitely the hardest part. Very awkward with a pack with an ice ax on it! Back to Noel, no gear places and once topped out of that he said walking class two and he slung a large rock on summit ridge to belay us up. Flattish but exposed on the ridge to true summit with one slabbier couple moves. Incredible views from roomy flat comfy summit with the most incredible register talked about in many reports. Did not note when started up the rock but were on top at 10:30-ish.

Watched the Mounties group of 9 from summit reach transition off Glacier onto rock. Good pics of them as went on the cornices ridgeline up to rock summit block.

First rap anchor easily found just below summit but please be aware when getting down to it. Scariest part of my day....

Second rap

Third rap

Traversed back over to Sahale and on up to the true summit. Fun little move on slabby rock with big solid block to grab for a hold. Saw the infamous marker stating Boston peak on sahale. 8 Mounties were still on the summit and very slowly rapping off on scramble side instead the usual side. We decided to setup our rope to tap on the usual side using two lockers from that group so they could take them back. We three tapped then let two or three of their group rap as well on our rope (Noel's rope from Sean on its inaugural trip!) to help speed up their decent. pulled the rope and headed out.

Summary Total Data
Ascent Statistics
    Route:Cascade pass (Sahale Arm)
Descent Statistics

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