Ascent of Sahale Peak on 2017-07-08

Climber: Sarah Montgomery

Others in Party:Peter Tran -- Trip Report or GPS Track
Date:Saturday, July 8, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Sahale Peak
    Elevation:8680 ft / 2645 m

Ascent Trip Report

Sahale Peak via Quien Sabe Glacier (Boston Basin), descent down Sahale Arm.

Of note: There are two "traditional" routes up the Quien Sabe Glacier, one direct route that ascends very steeply on the right, and one longer route that traverses to the left, and under sharkfin tower. Seeing a strong snow bridge over a crevasse in the middle of the two routes, we split the planned routes and went up the middle of the glacier. Glacier travel was straightforward once the route was chosen, and we zig zagged up the steeper snow to the col, zigging and zagging to avoid poor run out into crevasses below on the left and on the right. Beware the cornice at the ridge, and steep snow and exposed class 3-4 near the summit. We protected the class 3-4 due to its exposure, as well as the steep snow directly under the summit block. One dicey move included a transition from very steep snow to class 3 rock, where crampons could not be removed for another 10 vertical feet (climbing rock on crampons is new to me). As a party of 9, the summit was crowded and we all rapped off to descend Sahale Arm. We agreed 9 is too many for this route. Beware of goats around Sahale Glacier Camp.
Having not planned to protect the rock and steep snow sections at the top, it took us a while to get organized and get a plan together, hence we did not summit until about noon or 1 pm. The views and descent were outstanding--some of the best in my opinion.
We reached our shuttle cars around 6 pm and had dinner at Mondo's in Marblemount. The decor, beers, good food and company made the climb even better.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles

This page has been served 267 times since 2005-01-15.

Copyright © 1987-2019 by All Rights Reserved. Questions/Comments/Corrections? See the Contact Page Terms of Service