Ascent of The Tooth on 2017-07-02

Climber: Jaime McCandless

Others in Party:Jason Curtis -- Trip Report or GPS Track
Date:Sunday, July 2, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:The Tooth
    Elevation:5604 ft / 1708 m

Ascent Trip Report

We left the summer trailhead around 5:40 and were the first on the trail. There was snow starting above source lake (although it's starting to melt out there too). The snow was soft enough that we made it most of the way in just mountaineering boots, although I did put crampons on for the final steep section leading up to the notch.

The approach to the notch took us a little over 2 hours - we were moving a little slow for various reasons - and then we took a leisurely lunch break. We were first on the route, but a group of four showed up shortly after we started climbing, and we passed a soloist on our way down. We simuled the route in one long pitch with 30m of rope out - took maybe 45min, but we were very comfortable at the grade and didn't end up placing much gear. The second party was still working on the 2nd pitch when we finished our rappels.

We descended in three rappels on a 60m rope, with some scrambling in the middle, but you could easily add in another rappel to cut out the downscrambling. We did notice that one of the rappels was a definite rope-stretcher (the second-to-last), but we didn't see any other rap stations in between.

We descended the same way we came up rather than taking the chossy rappels down pineapple pass. By this time the snow was soft enough that I didn't put my crampons back on.

Approach: ~2.5hrs
Climb: ~1hr
Rappel descent: ~1.5hrs
Deproach: ~1.5hrs
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:2404 ft / 732 m
    Route:South Face
    Trailhead:3200 ft / 975 m
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Open Country, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Jaime McCandless
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

Download this GPS track as a GPX file

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