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Ascent of Mount Logan on 2017-06-24

Climber: Patty Cokus

Others in Party:Noel Howe <4010> John Thomas
----Only Party on Mountain
Date:Saturday, June 24, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Logan
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:9087 ft / 2769 m

Ascent Trip Report

A very strenuous trip but oh so worth it. Such a beautiful area with a very rewarding peak that took a bit of work to enjoy it’s splendor.

MOUNT LOGAN via Banded Glacier
June 23-25, 2017 (Patty, Noel, John Thomas)

Stunningly clear and warm weather every day. Gorgeous!

Day 1 – 3k Gain/Loss, ~10 miles. Started at Easy Pass Trailhead 10am for a fairly easy day up to Easy Pass (6,600 ft) then down past Fisher Creek and Cosho camps to our turnoff from the trail where we camped at 3,600 ft, 4pm.

Day 2 – 6,500’ Gain/Loss, ~10 miles. 15 hour summit day. 5:15am from 3,600 ft camp up 1,600 ft of steep uphill bushwhacking to a lake at 5,200 ft. Bushwacked along a ridge to where we could cross the inlet stream on snow which was melting out fast!

Lots of uphill snow slope travel to a stunning narrow notch in the cliff around 7,000 ft leading to the hidden banded lake and banded glacier. We saw one mountain goat on the way to the notch and lots of tracks below. So hard to believe they can live here but they do! Down the not so fun steep dirt/scree from the notch to banded lake, traverse part way around the lake and then up snow to the glacier. Roped up for steep sidehill traversing above exposed blue icefall cracks and up steep snow to the saddle where the Banded glacier and Douglas glacier meet. Then we transitioned off snow onto rock (a bit tricky due to the snow melting away from the rock) for an easy scramble to the false summit then easy but exposed climbing for the final summit block, 9,087 ft. Back to camp at 8:15 pm.

Day 3 – 3k Gain/Loss, ~10 miles. 7am headed out with our full overnight packs and back up 3,000 ft to Easy Pass then losing it again back down to the cars at noon. Wasn’t as hot as it could have been and went fairly smoothly, although it was a trudge up to the pass.

Feeling tired and sore in a good way after 30 miles and 12,500 ft gain/loss.
Summary Total Data
Ascent Statistics
    Route:Banded Glacier from Easy Pass
Descent Statistics



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