Ascent of Lincoln Peak on 2017-06-05
|Other People:||Solo Ascent|
Only Party on Mountain
|Date:||Monday, June 5, 2017|
|Ascent Type:||Successful Summit Attained|
| Elevation:||9080 ft / 2767 m|
Ascent Trip ReportApproached via Rankin Creek to camp at 5800' (3 hrs), lots of snow still. Snowed all afternoon then cleared up for a nice sunset. Could hear the helicopter crevasse rescue operation on Coleman Glacier. Overnight temps in the 20's helped firm up the snow.
Got moving 1:45am on perfect snow conditions, traveling solo with only 2 ice tools & crampons. At 5am I reached the enormous shrund and in the dark missed the collapsed snow bridge in the center which was the way to go. Instead I went far left and made a super sketchy move up an ice covered rock step. Everything above the shrund becomes super steep & very exposed, just kept moving across the airy traverse and up the super steep constriction gully which was a bit icy but in good shape. Runnels were easily crossed and no rocks or icefall during the climb (until I was back down at the bottom). Made the summit at 6:15am, no problems.
Descent was slow; front-pointing the whole way down. I had a 60m rope but never used it in favor of being expedient before the snow softened. Was back at camp at 10am and after a fun bike ride back to the car at noon. Very scary climb unroped, tons of exposure.
|Summary Total Data|
| Route:||X Couloir|
| Route Conditions:||Snow Climb, Ice Climb|
| Gear Used:||Ice Axe, Crampons|
| Nights Spent:||1 nights away from roads|
| Time:||5 Hours |
| Time:||3 Hours 30 Minutes|
|GPS Data for Ascent/Trip|
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Peaks: climbed and unclimbed by Andy Dewey
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