Ascent of Lincoln Peak on 2017-06-05

Climber: Andy Dewey

Other People:Solo Ascent
Only Party on Mountain
Date:Monday, June 5, 2017
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Lincoln Peak
    Elevation:9080 ft / 2767 m

Ascent Trip Report

Approached via Rankin Creek to camp at 5800' (3 hrs), lots of snow still. Snowed all afternoon then cleared up for a nice sunset. Could hear the helicopter crevasse rescue operation on Coleman Glacier. Overnight temps in the 20's helped firm up the snow.

Got moving 1:45am on perfect snow conditions, traveling solo with only 2 ice tools & crampons. At 5am I reached the enormous shrund and in the dark missed the collapsed snow bridge in the center which was the way to go. Instead I went far left and made a super sketchy move up an ice covered rock step. Everything above the shrund becomes super steep & very exposed, just kept moving across the airy traverse and up the super steep constriction gully which was a bit icy but in good shape. Runnels were easily crossed and no rocks or icefall during the climb (until I was back down at the bottom). Made the summit at 6:15am, no problems.

Descent was slow; front-pointing the whole way down. I had a 60m rope but never used it in favor of being expedient before the snow softened. Was back at camp at 10am and after a fun bike ride back to the car at noon. Very scary climb unroped, tons of exposure.

Summary Total Data
    Route:X Couloir
    Route Conditions:
Snow Climb, Ice Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons
    Nights Spent:1 nights away from roads
Ascent Statistics
    Time:5 Hours 
Descent Statistics
    Time:3 Hours 30 Minutes
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Andy Dewey
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

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