Ascent to Lundin Peak-Fixed Bolt on Summit Block on 2017-03-25

Climber: Karthik Krish

Others in Party:Dhruv Garg -- Trip Report or GPS Track
Date:Saturday, March 25, 2017
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
Point Reached:Lundin Peak - Fixed Bolt on Summit Block
    Elevation:5961 ft / 1816 m
    Remaining Elevation:96 ft / 30 m (100% left to go)

Ascent Trip Report

Attempted Lundin peak leading a party of 9 (3 leaders and 6 students). Left the Snoqualmie parking lot at 7:15 AM. With the forecast showing considerable avalanche danger, everyone got beacons. We did a beacon check at the PCT trailhead. Snowshoes were recommended but optional (the instructors had them but not all the students did). We did not need snow shoes in the initial part of the approach (trail was already broken). About 2.5 miles in, the actual off trail navigation started. All the students rotated kicking steps. We drifted off our tracks a little bit but were going parallel. At around ~4500ft we decided to catch up with our original tracks which made us descend a little before finding the "obvious" snow gulley described in Becky's book. With knee deep snow we lost about an hour here.

Once in the gulley we made good progress. Everyone rotated kicking steps again with the increasing frequency as the gulley got steeper. We stayed to the right of the gulley to avoid any avy danger. There were no red flags apart from spin drift snow from the rocks next to us. We finally reached the saddle at 3pm but everyone was exhausted at this point. As expected the weather got a little worse at the saddle.

Me and 2 others in my party then went up to the base of the summit pyramid to scope it out and start setting up the handlines. There was a nice little area for everyone to hang out there so we called everyone up to the base. It was a little icy so we asked everyone to put on crampons.

One of my partners started to belay me up but the snow conditions were not great (it was icy, thin and not deep enough to place pickets in most areas). Still made it to the fixed bolt after placing 2 pickets along the way. This is where things got sketchy. The cornice broke when I was probing with my ice axe (I could see down the north face) . Decided to call it quits since the conditions did not look right (even if a handline was setup).

Everyone then glissaded back down the gulley and then slogged back to the car in headlamps (back at 20:45).
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Snow on Ground, Scramble, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Snowshoes
    Weather:Snowing, Cold, Windy, Low Clouds
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Karthik Krish
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

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