Ascent of Dallas Peak on 1991-09-01

Climber: David Olson

Others in Party:Greg Kehrl
Doug van Zet
joined by Trisha and Andrea.
Date:Sunday, September 1, 1991
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:4x4 Vehicle
Peak:Dallas Peak
    Elevation:13809 ft / 4208 m

Ascent Trip Report

Aug 31 Saturday. I went with Greg Kehrl and Doug Van Zet to climb Dallas Peak, 13809 ft. We drove down to Telluride and hiked up to our base, at 11400 ft. The trail is very round-about to avoid a high cliff band across the valley. I spoke for a few minutes with a hiker who had climbed Dallas three weeks before. He said that next time he would skip the rope.
Sept 1 Sunday. We went up the southeast face of Dallas, grassy meadow, then up a low cliff band. I somewhat desired a rope for that. On the way down we were shown an easier route through the low cliff band. We climbed up easier terrain rightward and around the shoulder and up easy terrain on the east face. We ran up against a big cliff. Greg found a devious way that avoided most of the cliff, but then we had to rope up. We were joined by two vivacious gals, Trisha van Heltenbrake and Andrea Heath, who had been stuck at the same cliff, and we provided a rope up for them. We all went left on small exposed ledges. My guess on the way down was that they went up an exposed couloir-break-in-the-cliff just before our rope-up point. Some more easy terrain brought us to the summit block, and the choice between the keyhole (strenuous) and the strenuous couloir. The guidebook says to get out the rope here. I do not know how the guidebook authors got past that last cliff. Another party was coming down and provided the rope up this bit. Now we were on a ledge on the precipitous north face. The ledge extended just to the crack system that goes to the top. We roped up again. It started to rain pellet snow. I had a hard time of it going up the pitch and by the top my hands were frigid. We took in the view, photographed, signed in and then rappelled off the northeast point, past the top two roped pitches, hiked down a bit, rappelled off that cliff and hiked down
to camp. Then it rained some more.
During the climb we were passed by a guy climbing solo. I heard that he free-climbed some ledge on the south side, that the other people on top offered him a rappel down but that he downclimbed that same ledge. I wish I had gotten a look at that ledge. What I saw of the south side was uninviting, except that the base of the cliffs was better than on the north.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:2409 ft / 734 m
    Total Elevation Loss:2409 ft / 734 m
    Grade/Class:class 5.1
    Quality:7 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
    Weather:spells of rain and pellet snow
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:2409 ft / 734 m
    Route:standard route in Garrett & Martin's guide book
    Start Trailhead:camp south of Dallas  11400 ft / 3474 m
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:2409 ft / 734 m
    Route:retrace standard route, with rappell.
    End Trailhead:same as start point  11400 ft / 3474 m

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