Ascent of Longs Peak on 1986-07-26

Climber: David Olson

Others in Party:Doug van Zet
Date:Saturday, July 26, 1986
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:Longs Peak
    Elevation:14255 ft / 4344 m

Ascent Trip Report

West Couloir Route. It is time for a 4th class ascent of Longs. I recruited Doug Van Zet to go along. We left at a vanzettian time, starting from the Longs Peak Ranger Station at 10:45 am. Nothing to report up to the Boulderfield. We saw a climber ascending Kieners Route; we saw a climber descending the Cable Route (the same ?). We
went through the Keyhole, found the couloir that matched the description and ascended to a broad window. It was a series of steps and ledges. At the top of the window was a 20-30 ft. pitch with pretty bad exposure. It was doable but not 4th class. It also looked like we had gotten on the False Keyhole route. We poked around up at the top of the couloir, then descended to the Ledges and tried the next couloir over. This was it. It had an easier grade and when we got to the headwall there was a crack on the left, topped by chockstones forming two caves. Doug investigated the lower cave, no go. I went up to the upper (face climbing) and found the tunnel, 18 inches high,
laterally to the left, onto a boulder slope 18 inches from the lip. We then went up more easy ledges to the top of the ridge and followed the ridge (a bare spine of rock for a fair distance) to the top. We made it at 5:50 pm. We descended by the Keyhole route, passed four or five tents in the Boulderfield (on a Sunday night!) and got back
to the car at 10:30 pm, using our night vision mostly. We did not see much of the pilgrimage.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:4855 ft / 1479 m
    Total Elevation Loss:4855 ft / 1479 m
    Grade/Class:class 3-4
    Quality:8 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:4855 ft / 1479 m
    Route:West Couloir route
    Start Trailhead:Standard Longs Peak trailhead  9400 ft / 2865 m
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:4855 ft / 1479 m
    Route:Keyhole route
    End Trailhead:same as start point  9400 ft / 2865 m

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