Ascent of Chair Peak on 2016-09-22

Climber: Cory Sytsma

Date:Thursday, September 22, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Chair Peak
    Elevation:6238 ft / 1901 m

Ascent Trip Report

Plan was to climb the NE Buttress. Climbed with Jim Daniels.

Left Alpental parking lot at 8:15am, took the Source Lake trail all the way back to the east on top of the knoll, where it starts to head back down to Snow Lake. Ascended the talus field just west of that and reached the E-W ridge, E of Chair Peak, through a small chute (class 3). Found a nice trail along the N side of the ridge, that took us all the way to the base of Chair Peak at the NE Buttress.

Roped up and climbed the buttress, setup first belay in the trees on the N side. Simul-climbed on the N side until we reached gained the ridge again, then climbed the ridge. However, we ended up too far around to the N, resulting in cross-climb in wet, mossy, muddy slab, belayed in the small trees. From there, simul-climbed to the summit. We were definitely off-route, and missed the better climbing along the buttress.

Descending wasn't any better. Attempted to rappel down the ridge, but had to negotiate back-and-forth a couple times to find rappel stations, which involved down-climbing. We did find enough rappel stations so we didn't have to leave anything behind, and did it with one rope. But I wouldn't attempt to rappel the buttress again.

Descending the steep talus field was miserable. And we made the mistake of staying on the right/West side, where we should have crossed over to the next talus field to the East, which would have been easier, judging by another climber who started behind us by 10 mins, but reached the Source Lake trail about 10 mins ahead of us. There's an odd section we followed that was marked with several hundred meters of twine. It might be the best way to descend if you're stuck over there, but it sucks.

Reached the car at 7:00pm. Not our most efficient route finding day of climbing.
Summary Total Data
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Cory Sytsma
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