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Ascent of Boston Peak on 2016-09-16

Climber: Eric Gilbertson

Date:Friday, September 16, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Boston Peak
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:8894 ft / 2710 m

Ascent Trip Report

I had just finished traveling around the world for 2 months over the summer hitting country highpoints and my flight landed in Seattle at 6pm on Thursday evening. I was hoping to take advantage of sunny weather Friday before the weekend rain came, so immediately met up with Aaron and we started driving up to the North Cascades. (I had misplaced my key and was locked out of my apartment, but luckily Aaron could spot me some extra mountaineering gear).

We camped out just outside the park boundary, then started hiking up towards cascade pass at 6:45am. The weather was great and we easily hiked up to the glacier at the base of Sahale Peak. We felt safe crossing without a rope, then scrambled up the back right side of Sahale and took a break on the summit with two other climbers. From here we scrambled along the knife-edge ridge towards Boston Peak.

At the base of the peak, below the rappel anchors, we traversed right on a good ledge, then scrambled up when the ledge disappeared. It was mostly exposed loose third class climbing with a fourth-class section near the top which we did unroped.

At 2pm We found the famous summit register on top placed in 1966, and added our names. Three rappels with out 50m rope brought us back to the knife-edge ridge, and we were soon scrambling down sahale and back on the trail. We reached the car at almost exactly the 11hr mark, and were back to Seattle before too long.

Link to full trip report and pictures.
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