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Ascent of Lily Rock on 2016-09-11

Climber: JT Newgard

Date:Sunday, September 11, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Lily Rock
    Location:USA-California
    Elevation:8000 ft / 2438 m

Ascent Trip Report

Erik and I climbed 'The Long Climb' on Tahquitz rock. P1 is a wonderful crack with cheater lieback crack inside and all kinds of jam sizes. I fell out of the off-width on P2 at least twice as I chicken-winged my way up the difficult feature. P3 started out with a crack on the right side, followed by a fun chimney, and a cool step left onto an arete to get around the roof.

We made a variation on P4 by zig-zagging up ledges to the right (instead of following the classic route line straight up past the broken piton - possibly placed by Royal Robbins himself...?). The friction moves on the classic route line are a heady lead.

On P5 we finally saw the sun (was glad to have my puffy jacket today), moving left onto blocky terrain. Fun mantles were had as we stepped onto the summit. I've been on this peak three times and just love Idyllwild. Sad to see the forest looking a bit strained - very dry. Come back rain!!

PS. Three of our five belays made use of living trees / bushes. Nice to have these around. With the two bolt belay available after P1, we only needed to make one gear belay (after P2).
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