Ascent of Torreys Peak on 2014-10-04

Climber: Jonathan Scislow

Others in Party:Tim Kirsch
Date:Saturday, October 4, 2014
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:Torreys Peak
    Elevation:14267 ft / 4348 m

Ascent Trip Report

Started out as a solo hike. Met up with two climbers partway through and continued on with them for safety due to weather conditions.

Encountered very bad weather. Started out fine, but hit snow and storms starting at the Grays/Torreys saddle. Decided to hike up Torreys first (hit the more difficult peak first and still have a chance to summit the easier peak after), but had to retreat due to deep snow, high winds, and not being able to feel my fingers.

Intended to descend, but regrouped at the saddle. One climber descended. I continued up Grays Peak with Tim Kirsch. Pinned down by extreme winds for over 30 minutes. Debated crawling down the mountain, but winds started to finally die down. Had to sprint up and then crouch down in high gusts to avoid getting blown off our feet.

Finally winds died down enough to summit Grays and take the ridge over to Torreys. Successfully summited both peaks and had clear weather at the top. Opted to descend the 'Class 2' route from Torreys rather than take the saddle back. Entire path was snowed over, but after a 50ft traverse kicking steps on the Torreys face we didn't trust the snow quality enough to backtrack. Ended up doing a 400ft travers across the face of Torreys before finally reconnecting with the path for an easy descent.

Very difficult and tiring climb. Microspikes and trekking poles were essential. Need mountaineering goggles (had sunglasses and a mask, but eyes were still very red), and a hose insulator (no water for the majority of the trip due to freezing) next time.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:560 ft / 170 m
    Total Elevation Loss:3000 ft / 914 m
    Round-Trip Distance:4.4 mi / 7.1 km
    Grade/Class:Class 3
    Quality:7 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Crampons, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
    Weather:Snowing, Cold, Extremely Windy, White-out
Complete Shit
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:560 ft / 170 m
    Distance:0.4 mi / 0.6 km
    Route:Grays + Torreys => Saddle
    Start Trailhead:Grays + Torreys => Saddle  13707 ft / 4177 m
    Time:0 Days 11 Hours 40 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:3000 ft / 914 m
    Distance:4 mi / 6.4 km
    Route:Torreys South Slopes
    End Trailhead:Grays Peak Trailhead  11267 ft / 3434 m
    Time:0 Days 3 Hours 0 Minutes
Ascent Part of Trip: Grays/Torreys (1 nights total away from roads)

Complete Trip Sequence:
1Grays Peak2014-10-04 A3000 ft / 914 m
2Torreys Peak2014-10-04 B560 ft / 171 m
Total Trip Gain: 3560 ft / 1085 m    Total Trip Loss: 3563 ft / 1086 m

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