Ascent of Desolation Peak on 2016-08-20

Climber: Dustin Erickson

Date:Saturday, August 20, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Desolation Peak
    Elevation:13155 ft / 4009 m

Ascent Trip Report

Big day after ascending Tourist creek from Beaver Park and setting camp at lake 11045, decided to tack on this peak and I am glad I did! Great weather and got really close (15 yards) to a large bighorn ram before he ran off. Took a fun 4th class variation to attain the ridge further along. A little earlier in the seasona nd the major coulior would be a good route. I found a film can register on top, but no pencil and I (again) forgot to bring one. Only 2 entries, 2013 and 2003. Amazing views of Gannett, Koven, Mammoth Glacier and the Tourist creek area. Impressive north face on Desolation. The east ridge looks doable with maybe a little 4th class to get to the saddle with Bastion, it also looks like you could take the ridge up to connect with Bastion, but I didnt do this (though the next day I descended from Bastion/Rampart gully to lake 11,478. The snow and ice at the saddle between Desolation, and Rampart on the north side is very steep and at least in late August very hard ice. An ice ax and crampons would be mandatory to descend this and probably a rope and screws for most people, FYI.
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