Ascent of Mount Abbot on 1984-09-29

Climber: Greg Gerlach

Others in Party:SPS group
----Only Party on Mountain
Date:Saturday, September 29, 1984
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
Peak:Mount Abbot
    Elevation:13200 ft / 4023 m

Ascent Trip Report

This was a SPS trip led by Dale Van Dalsem and Bob Henderson. Our group of 20 started out from Mosquito Flat to day hike the peak. The leaders took us up a chute above the glacier on the east side of the peak; this route was not in any of the guide books, so the leaders did not have any beta on it. At about 13,200' in elevation, Al Franz was hit in the head by a 3-4" rock that was dislodged from above by another climber. Al's head bleed a lot. The two leaders administered first aid to stop the bleeding and helped get him off the mountain and into the hospital in Bishop, where he received stiches and was released. Five trip participants, myself included, returned to the trailhead while 12 people continued up the chute, only to turn back because of high 3-4 class rock.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:3000 ft / 914 m
    Round-Trip Distance:12.5 mi / 20.1 km
    Route:East Couloir
    Trailhead:Mosquito Flat  10200 ft / 3108 m
    Grade/Class:Class 3

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