Ascent of Mount Torment on 2016-08-13

Climber: Fabien Le Gallo

Others in Party:Nick R
Date:Saturday, August 13, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Torment
    Elevation:8120 ft / 2474 m

Ascent Trip Report

Party of 4.
The original plan was to do the Torment - Forbbiden traverse but because of lack of time and general slowness, we only did Torment Peak that weekend.

09:30AM - We Started hiking from the trailhead at Cascade Pass road.
12:00PM - We reached one of the campsite of Boston Basin.
01:00PM - Small lunch break before hitting the Glacier.
01:30PM - We roped up and started to cross the glacier. There was just a small crevasse on our way, easy to cross.
02:00PM - We started the climb of Torment peak from the South.
03:00PM - We started the climb with fixed belays which wasted a lot of precious time.
04:30PM - We decided to switch to simul climbing to accelerate our pace.
06:00PM - We finally arrived to the pass.
07:00PM - First team on top of Torment Peak
08:00PM - Second team on top of Torment Peak
09:00PM - Second team arrived to a bivy site we found on the way to the summit. A small flat area covered of rocks, good enough for 3 people.
09:15PM - We started to move some rocks to extend the bivy site until it's good enough to fit 4 people. 3 of us still had the feet hanging over the edge.
11:00PM - Dinner and bed time.
07:00AM - Woke up, breakfast.
07:30AM - We started our way back. We rappelled down from the south est fact. A lot of rappel stations on the way.
11:00AM - Back to the glacier we roped up all together to cross it.
12:00PM - Back to the ground, we removed all our gear and started the hike back to the trailhead.
03:30PM - Back to the car.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:5000 ft / 1524 m
    Round-Trip Distance:10 mi / 16.1 km
    Route:South Ridge
    Trailhead:3120 ft / 950 m
    Quality:6 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Bivouac
    Weather:Hot, Calm, Clear
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Fabien Le Gallo
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

Download this GPS track as a GPX file

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