Ascent of Sahale Peak on 2016-08-13

Climber: Owen Gabrielson

Date:Saturday, August 13, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Sahale Peak
    Elevation:8680 ft / 2645 m

Ascent Trip Report

Left the Old Miner trail at 4:35 a.m.

Ascended to Boston Basin.

Roped up around 7,000 feet and ascended climber's right side of the glacier, quickly weaving through a couple crevasses, watching for rock and ice fall on the right (didn't see any).

A lot of betas have climbers going left, and then traversing below Boston. Our direct route was steeper, but definitely saved time. And there's rockfall below Boston anyways.

As we appriached the final scramble, we encountered an RMI guided group (6 clients, 2 guides at the top. Rather than scramble up, then down, we just waited for them to descend. It took an hour. It was OK, we were ahead of schedule, and it gave us time to snack, hydrate, and snooze.

We summitted around noon, rapped off back side Sahale glacier. A group of three men behind us scrambled up, and scrambled back down. Note: if you're gonna rap, two 30m's aren't quite long enough. We extended the rap, leaving a cordellete and they barely made it. I didn't like doing it that way, but ya do what ya gotta do.

Of note: does anyone know why the USGS marker on Sahale says "BOSTON"? Clearly was not Boston Peak we climbed.

Uneventful trip down except I lost count of switchbacks coming down from Cascade Pass. Hit parking lot a 6:00 p.m.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Scramble, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles

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