Ascent of Warrior Peak on 2016-07-30

Climber: Igor Shishkin

Other People:Solo Ascent
Date:Saturday, July 30, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Warrior Peak
    Elevation:7320 ft / 2231 m

Ascent Trip Report

I started from Upper Dungeness Trailhead at 5 am. A trail towards Camp Handy is plain (3 miles). I'd use a bicycle if they were allowed on the trail. The trail from Camp Handy to Boulder camp moderately goes up (3 miles, 1800 ft gain). After Boulder camp I followed Home Lake trail for about 2 miles more. I skipped the first creek (with a big boulder). About 9 am I reached the second creek, that is strong and waterfall-style. Shortly after it I turned left, off the trail, and started climbing up a slope. It involves a little bit of bush walking at the beginning, but later it is walking on a ground and grass, some scrambling on rocks. Higher a boulder field starts. Since I turned left right after the creek I found myself on the north side of the west spur (a lake is on the south side of it). At about 10 am I was at the bottom of a scree gully between peaks of the mountain. There was still snow at the lower part of the gully, so I had to walk in a gap between snow and a rock face. At 10:50 am I reached a saddle.

Southeast summit. From the saddle I turned right and crossed snow to a rock face. I climbed the right most chimney. The hardest part is first 20 feet (class 4). On top of that section there is an anchor made from two slings and a ring that can be used to rappel down. Further up it is an easy scramble. I reached the summit at 11:40 am. Since I didn't have a rope I down climbed. In fact, it turned out easier than I thought initially.

Northwest summit. From the saddle I went around spitted rock from the right side, scrambled a right angled gully to a ledge, then continued scrambling a gully that goes in the same direction. The time was 12:30 pm. I down climbed face out.

On my way down I used a different route. I went through the lake. It is a boulder field almost all the way down (lots of small unstable rocks) and a little bush walking near the trail. I reached the trail at 2 pm and breathed a sigh of relief. The climb is done, the rest part is just walking. I returned to my car after 5 pm.
Summary Total Data
    Grade/Class:3, 4
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Bushwhack, Scramble, Exposed Scramble
    Weather:Hot, Clear
Sunny and clear

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