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Ascent of Sloan Peak on 2016-07-23

Climber: Nicklas Anthony

Date:Saturday, July 23, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Sloan Peak
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:7835 ft / 2388 m

Ascent Trip Report

The initial approach contained three stream crossings, requiring knee high fording all within the first mile or less. The trail up to Cougar Creek falls is fairly maintained after exiting the marshy stream bed. After the falls, the trail deteriorates quickly. There were three stream crossings that could be done without river gear, but that were still very slick, exposing climbers to fall. Just under 4,800ft there is an open meadow. The presence of standing water and strewn rock turned us off to camping here. Continued to 5,200ft and found ample alpine meadow for camping on the east side of the trail. At this time in the year, there was plenty of running water for filtering. The next day we ascended to 6,400 where we moved on to the glacier early, ascending just east of the protruding rock formation. The glacier was in okay condition with several opened crevasses that were easily avoided. Once off the glacier, the scramble begins almost immediately. Mostly class 3 with one or two class 4 moves just below the summit. The scramble up the gully is less exposed than described in some trip reports. Rock is very loose. The descent resulted in a couple large (microwave sized) rocks becoming dislodged and falling down the route. Best to descend in very close proximity to all members of the party to prevent injury from rockfall.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Bushwhack, Stream Ford, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Tent Camp



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