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Ascent of Silver Star Mountain on 2016-05-06

Climber: Josh Emery

Date:Friday, May 6, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Silver Star Mountain
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:8876 ft / 2705 m

Ascent Trip Report

Buddy and I were looking for a long apline day. We found what we were looking for by bagging Silver Star Mountain and Big Snagtooth in one push. Started from Highway 20 and the route drops down immediately from the highway until you reach a river crossing.

Once across early winters creek you head east and up keeping a different creek to your right as a handhold. About 30 minutes in we hit a trail and we pretty much ascended snow free for the next 45 minutes about. Bergundy col is obvious and easy to navigate to. We used crampons for a short bit once out of the trees but not quite to the col. Not needed again this trip other than from the saddle just below silver star to its summit.

My partner belayed me to the true summit and there are two places that have slings you can use to protect the short section to the summit rock.

Once back to the saddle we descended down the south side of the saddle and made our way down to the east side of snagtooth ridge.

The couloir was easy to descend. There was a short section with just really loose sandy gravel but easy to descend. Most of it was in soft snow easy to plunge step and glissade. Once at the bottom we made our way over to the east side of Snagtooth where we found a small couloir to ascend up the col directly between bigsnag and willow tooth.

Then we found a short but easy climb that I felt better protecting so I found a good spot to girth hitch a sling around a pinch point between two boulders then belayed my partner up. This led us just shy of the spot right below the big boulder you had to slab your way up to gain the summit.

My partner gave me a boost! It was a bit difficult to get the first move off the ground but then it is easy from there.

View from of me standing on the top looking back at silver star. The obvious couloir with the patch of dirt towards the top was what we descended to get on the east side of snagtooth ridge.

13 hours car to car





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Our Tracks (2016-05-06). Photo by Josh Emery.
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Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:4676 ft / 1425 m
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Bushwhack, Stream Ford, Snow on Ground, Exposed Scramble
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:4676 ft / 1425 m
    Start Trailhead:Highway 20   4200 ft / 1280 m
    Time:6 Hours 30 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Time:6 Hours 30 Minutes



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