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Ascent of Big Snagtooth on 2016-05-06

Climber: Russell Bennett

Others in Party:Josh Emery
----Only Party on Mountain
Date:Friday, May 6, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Big Snagtooth
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:8330 ft / 2538 m

Ascent Trip Report

Parked on the side of North Cascades Highway west of Silver Star. Started hike at 4:00 AM. Initial creek crossing was made interesting in the dark as the creek was ragging and no obvious crossings could be found in the dark. Eventually we located a narrow log just barely out of the water that spanned the creek. Being very slick we knew we wouldnt maintain traction in the crossing so opted to put our crampons on to cross the log, worked well. From there we followed climbers trail up the ridge to the obvious saddle, as elevation increased so did the snow. After gaining the saddle we dropped down to the north side of Silver Star and traversed around before gaining the summit. Summit was attained at 9:00 AM. After a break for pictures and lunch we continued along the planned route towards Big Snagtooth. This required us to drop off the south side of silver star. We brought a second rope for this thinking we may need to do a double rope rappel however we were able to descend the gully was without aid. Lots of loose rock slid as we walked downhill, would not advise this route going up. After descending the gully we traversed south to the gully below Big Snagtooth. This was a lot of ups and downs as we gained then descended many ridges along the way, however none were difficult. Gained the saddle immediately north of Big Snagtooth summit from the east gully. There was a boulder problem in the form of a monkeys head to gain the high point. Summit of Big Snagtooth was attained by 1:00 PM. Descended Big Snagtooth on the south ridge before dropping into the gully to the west. Back to cars by 5:00 PM.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Bushwhack, Snow on Ground, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope



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