Ascent of Weavers Needle on 2016-05-06

Climber: James Morehouse

Other People:Solo Ascent
Only Party on Mountain
Date:Friday, May 6, 2016
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:Weavers Needle
    Elevation:4553 ft / 1387 m

Ascent Trip Report

Second ascent, this time solo. Wind made the climb sketchier than usual. I spent a lot of time climbing without my pack, then hauling it up after me (with a 60m rope attached to it). Three rappels and I was down. An incoming cold front made this possible. Normally, this time of year would be hellatious.

Note: after the first 40' of climbing there is a belay/rappel station. A year and a half ago, it was a three point, equalized anchor. However, instead of a screw down quick link, it had two opposing carabiners. I fitted a quick link at that time. When I returned on this trip, I found that some one had fixed a rope there. It is frayed in spots. I used it to haul my pack (with my rope attached) up to the station (only a small ledge in a kind of alcove). I found that instead of the three points that were there before, the anchor was now two. The top part was a rusty piton hammered into the rock to the eyelet, where my quick link was attached. A sling was tied from there to a rusty bolt with a hanger. The bolt was of a type I hadn't really seen before, much narrower than usual. From here a carabiner (not locking) was all that held the fixed rope, so I wouldn't rely on it for much other than hauling up gear. On the way down I rapped off here from the piton only, as it seemed to be the most solid. The next rap station (on the way up) was a pair of slings around a chock stone just below the top of the V-Notch. Both slings were fairly new, and were different from the slings that were up there about a year and a half ago. I inspected these slings, and saw that they were in pretty good shape. Near the top of the peak there is an over hanging wall, and on the left, an exposed class 3 to class 4 climb. At the top, over to the right, one can see a pair of chains bolted to a wall over a wide ledge, which is at the top of the wall I just mentioned. The chains, the bolts and hangers, are all fairly new. The chains are held together by two solid quick links. The only down side to this otherwise bomber anchor is that your rope will drop over the edge of the ledge and there is a risk of fraying it. The wall is over hung, so there will be about 20' of hanging free while you continue to lower yourself. When I did this on this trip, the wind was pretty strong, so I was spinning around while doing this. It was a little disconcerting.
Summary Total Data
    Round-Trip Distance:11.2 mi / 18 km
    Grade/Class:Class 4
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Bushwhack, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
    Weather:Cool, Breezy, Clear
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by James Morehouse
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

Download this GPS track as a GPX file

This page has been served 399 times since 2005-01-15.

Copyright © 1987-2019 by All Rights Reserved. Questions/Comments/Corrections? See the Contact Page Terms of Service