Ascent of El Capitan on 2002-11-20

Climber: Jacek Czyz

Others in Party:Last week I was the only climber on the wall. Amazing.
----Only Party on Mountain
Date:Wednesday, November 20, 2002
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:El Capitan
    Elevation:7569 ft / 2307 m

Ascent Trip Report

First major new route on the wall established solo by noAmerican climber.
Spent 30 days on the wall, 26 climbing, 4 hauling etc. 23 nights. First time start on Oct 8-th, fixing 4 pitches in 5-6 days. First continuous push 19th-26th to reach Turning Point and fixed to Mammoth Terraces. Next was final push Nov 1-st stopped by big 4-days storm on Nov 6-th (still able to fixed to MT). Real final push from Nov 12, topped during the night of November 20/02. Descent by rappel down the ascent route and Muir Wall to MT on Nov 21-22nd.
Start between Muir Wall and the Dorn Direct, pass Mammoth Terraces to right, crosses Muir Wall another 2 times, take Direct Finish crossing Muir the last time. Top out is even greater then on Zodiac or Dawn.

The best on net zoom able image/topo of center of El Cap:

Mountain Project page:

Some early publication in English:"Jacek
Click on photo for original larger-size version.
Poster by Master Topo: 1-st ascent of the Quo Vadis solo by Jacek Czyz (2003). Photo by Jacek Czyz.
Click here for larger-size photo.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:14000 ft / 4267 m
    Total Elevation Loss:14000 ft / 4266 m
    Grade/Class:VI 5.9+ A4+
    Quality:10 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Aid Climb
    Gear Used:
Rope, Tent Camp, Bivouac
    Nights Spent:23 nights away from roads
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:14000 ft / 4267 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 3000 ft / 915 m; Extra: 11000 ft / 3352m
    Loss on way in:11000 ft / 3352 m
    Route:Quo Vadis 1-st asc
    Start Trailhead:4569 ft / 1392 m
    Time:30 Days 
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:3000 ft / 914 m
    Route:rappelling the wall
    End Trailhead:4569 ft / 1392 m
    Time:1 Days 6 Hours 

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