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Ascent of Mount Franklin on 2015-01-30

Climber: Dustin Erickson

Date:Friday, January 30, 2015
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Franklin
    Location:New Zealand
    Elevation:7037 ft / 2144 m

Ascent Trip Report

We stayed at the aging, but less used Upper Deception Hut. Good thing too as we were unaware that the Speights Coast to Coast race was running through here in the morning and the all the Huts where nearly full! Fun to watch people either excel in this rough terrain (elite) or struggle (most people).

We took the small drainage just south of the hut on the topomap that has a talus field nearly to the river bed and makes circumvents the brush. Climb the drainage veering up the left (north branch) until you reach a small saddle somewhere around 1200 meters. Very carefully look for a cairn below and across the next scree slide. It will save you a lot of brush to cross as it is an goat/chamoix route through the tussock that you can take to traverse over to Good Luck Creek where there is good water. (we missed this on the way up, but caught it on the way down and built a much more prominent cairn to aid others). From here travel up the beautiful Good Luck canyon to Lake Anna. Traverse on the north side angling up to the lowest point on the saddle. Here is where it gets fun. Depending on how true to the ridge you stay it can be YDS 4th class or exposed 3rd class. After meating the mountain proper you can take a loose but easy gully system NW and then up ridges to the farther than you thought top. Great views and a feeling of remoteness.

An ice ax +/- crampons may be needed earlier in the season. We did not have one and were able to scramble around any hard snow patches that were left. ~1400 meters/4600 feet of elevation gain from the hut.

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