Ascent of North Palisade on 1967-08-24

Climber: Frederick Johnson

Others in Party:Don Jensen (Mountaineering Guide Service)
Rex Post
Bob Wolf
----Only Party on Mountain
Date:Thursday, August 24, 1967
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:North Palisade
    Elevation:14242 ft / 4340 m

Ascent Trip Report

On August 22 I left the Mountaineering Guide Service camp at Finger Lake
(10,850')to reconnoiter and possibly solo Temple Crag (12,999'). I descended to Brainerd Lake (10,275') and Willow Lake (9,550'), then started up the drainage from Glacier Notch (13,000')and camped higher along it in the afternoon. On August 23 I spent a while scouting a route up Temple Crag, but soon decided against a solo attempt. I continued up the XC route to Glacier Notch, where I was joined in the afternoon by Rex Post, Bob Wolf, and Don Jensen, who would skilfully guide us up North Palisade. The campsite here is regularly used by Mountaineering Guide Service, and, at 13,000', is a convenient starting point for the U Notch and North Pal.

Today we enjoyed as perfect a day on North Pal as one could hope for. Under Don's expert guidance, everything went like clockwork as we all moved well in unison. First crossing the Palisade Glacier to the U Notch, then the bergschrund with little difficulty, ascending the 700', 40-degree hard snow/ice couloir to the U Notch, then completing the climb to the summit via the classic Clyde Variation. A perfect day to be atop a great Sierra peak, with grand views to anywhere. During our half-hour or so on top, I enjoyed reading through the old register book, noting the names of many old timers. The descent to the U Notch was enjoyable, more so than the careful descent from there down to the Palisade Glacier. We returned to Glacier Notch by mid-afternoon. I left the others and hiked down via Sam Mack Meadow and the North Fork Trail to my car at the South Fork TH, arriving in early evening.
Click on photo for original larger-size version.
Mt. Agassiz and North Palisade from Mt. Goode (1967-08-19). Photo by Frederick Johnson.
Click here for larger-size photo.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:1242 ft / 378 m
    Total Elevation Loss:6342 ft / 1933 m
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Rock Climb, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Tent Camp
    Weather:Pleasant, Calm, Clear
Sunny, ideal weather
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:1242 ft / 378 m
    Route:U Notch, Clyde Variation
    Start Trailhead:Glacier Notch  13000 ft / 3962 m
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:6342 ft / 1933 m
    Route:U Notch, Glacier Notch, Big Pine Lakes Tr
    End Trailhead:S. Fork Big Pine Creek TH  7900 ft / 2407 m

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