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Ascent of Eldorado Peak on 2015-10-04

Climber: Patty Cokus

Date:Sunday, October 4, 2015
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Eldorado Peak
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:8868 ft / 2702 m

Ascent Trip Report

Intent was the NE face Intermediate Ice Climb...

Full report to come.....

who
When
camped
how the glacier was
etc


route too difficult to figure out in time we had. Kerry, Sharon and I went up the standard East Ridge route which due to late season wasn't so standard!

I climbed up a steep short bit, placed an ice screw on top and Kerry and Sharon came up. Then I went down a bit and crossed over the collapsed snow bridge in the crevasse to a somewhat precarious ice chunk. It held! Obvious the other two guys we had seen did this...

Traversed left onto the rock ridge. Went up rock quite a bit (removed crampons), then crampons on and back onto some snow but stayed next to rock. On rock a little again and then reached the top of the rock. Looked out over the knife edge which was incredibly sharp (definitely could not walk on it) and started prepping. Kerry in the meantime was checking gps and all references which indicated we were already on the summit.....what, no knife edge needed? Perhaps the wind changed it or just due to lack of snow that the route is able to be done without completing the knife edge. Would have needed our ice screws to have done it and if we had had more time would have maybe just for the hell of it...but due to needing to head out we took some photos then back down. Did place two screws on a stepper downclimb section that was bad runout due to the cliff. Continued on down the rock to avoid the ice chunk step across and downclimbing the steep section. Made it down to just above the notch we had crossed through by descending a gully skiers left and doing a belayed step across and up move.


Summary Total Data
Ascent Statistics
    Route:East Ridge
Descent Statistics



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