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Ascent of Broken Top on 2015-09-20

Climber: Mark Smith

Others in Party:Austin D. Smith -- Trip Report or GPS Track
Amber Smith
Gregory Phillips
Brenda Smith
Glenn Campbell
Greg Sloop
Date:Sunday, September 20, 2015
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Broken Top
    Location:USA-Oregon
    Elevation:9175 ft / 2796 m

Ascent Trip Report

This ascent completes our father/son goal of completing the Cascades Volcanoes Peak Pin list of 20 summits!

Broken Top is a scenic and worthwhile climb with just enough exposure to keep things interesting. Although this peak is typically done in one day, we opted to take two days. The following description is based on a two-day ascent.

Start from the well-signed Green Lakes trailhead, just across from Sparks Lake. Hike about 4 miles and 1100' of elevation to campsites at Green Lakes. Camping is permitted at only 28 specific sites. Half of these were open on the weekend of our trip.

As the trail turns north at the southeast corner of the larger Green Lake, a climbers trail heads due east past Site #16 (suitable for two, two-person tents). This easy to follow trail gains the saddle on the northwest ridge of Broken Top. Follow the ridge to the summit block. At the point where the ridge can no longer be followed as 3rd class, traverse a few feet to the right and climb a 10' high band of steep and loose 4th class. This is the crux of the route. Make an easy scramble up to a red headwall and diagonal under it to the south ridge. After a few airy but easy feet back to the north, a final few moves of easy 4th class on better quality rock gain the summit.

After down climbing to the technical high crux we opted for a short rappel from a large block on the ridge a few feet to the north. Helmets are recommended as there are a lot of small rocks that are easily kicked loose by those above.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:3925 ft / 1195 m
    Extra Gain:100 ft / 30 m
    Trailhead:5450 ft / 1661 m
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Exposed Scramble
    Gear Used:
Rope, Tent Camp
    Nights Spent:1 nights away from roads
    Weather:Breezy



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