Ascent of Mount Thomson on 2015-08-23

Climber: Sonja Serwold

Date:Sunday, August 23, 2015
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Thomson
    Elevation:6554 ft / 1997 m

Ascent Trip Report

We went up the east ridge as a Mounties basic alpine climb. This is the scramble route as well as the rap/descent route for the technical climb on the west ridge. A long but easy approach on the PCT (about 8 miles), then once you are above Alaska lake the route goes up and over Bumble Bee Pass on a steep climbers trail. We followed the climbers trail through the bowl (nice camping spots here with a little water even at the end of this very dry summer) and up diagonally across the talus field aiming above the trees to the second (eastern) and larger notch. Continue following the climbers trail. It got a little hard to follow in the more difficult scrambling portions but if you look for rap stations you can find the way. The final 4th class dihedral is far climbers left, you should not be able to traverse any further left, there is another one slightly right of it which reportedly cliffs out. We roped up with one rope using butterfly knots to attach to the rope for the dihedral. It is really only about 10-15 feet, fine to scramble for anyone comfortable leading on rock. It looks more intimidating than it actually is, lots of spots for feet. Still it was nice to have rope and harness for rapping down. First 2 raps are very nice to have. 3rd is skiers left and optional. There is a lot of erosion at this one making it hard to get to anyway and way too easy to send down rocks. We set up a new rap station skiers right of the 3rd station which was good for those not comfortable down climbing (half our party used this). Continue back along the climbing route. 18 mile, 5250 feet, 14 hour day.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Scramble
    Gear Used:
Rope, Ski Poles

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