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Ascent of Lundin Peak on 2015-08-23

Climber: Patty Cokus

Date:Sunday, August 23, 2015
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Lundin Peak
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:6057 ft / 1846 m

Ascent Trip Report

With most everything either on fire in Washington state or access blocked due to fire the Snoqualmie Pass area was looking pretty good. Sean has never climbed Lundin and as I had followed it 3 or so years ago I said sure.

Left Seattle sometime after 7am, amazed at all the nearly full parking lot at Alpental. We knew Snow Lake was a popular trail but this was crazy! Started out around 8:40am.

I led up and started up towards Snoqualmie like I remembered from the last time. We went off the trail and traversed high. I did remember feeling like there was some exposed scrambling with cliffs below... Sean thought this seemed a much harder way and that we should have stayed at the saddle and gone into the "draw". This prompted a discussion of what a "draw" is. Ok, so we dropped down into the valley/basin/creekbed/draw. And went up that way on a decent trail...much easier! Then up snowdome and to where it seemed we could start traversing around. I set my altimeter to 3120ft at the TH and my altimeter read about 5600ft for our traverse which went up to 5700 near the end. We did a little bushwacking, nothing major. Probably game trails at this point. We did pass the small plane wreakage.

Made it to the ridge and donned helmets, put our harnesses on. Scrambled over to a notch where we decided to get the rope out. Sean had graciously allowed me to lead the whole thing since this climb is more my level instead of his and also I had followed it before and had an idea of the route.

Made a 4th class or 5.0 move up and then it sort of scrambles over. We brought half a twin 60m so doubled it. Man is a 30m short for leading. I passed a rather strange rappel anchor with webbing and cord on a tree and around big but loose rocks. Didn't like it... We did a mixture of belaying and somewhat simul-climbing but there wasn't enough pro really for it. I had remembered a long ledge thing but wasn't sure if it was a scramble or what so we simul-climbed it with basically one nut placed. Looked up the slab possibility as an option instead of the left bootpatch ledge...started up but wasn't sure what was on the other side plus the pro was a little slim. Figured I didn't want to downclimb it if need be and took the left easy ledge. Good thing as there was quite a drop to a notch on the other side.

After the ledge traverse (we scrambled it unroped on way back) There is a distinct big tree to use as an anchor. This is then the 'crux' pitch. Rappel route is straight up with a somewhat scary looking open boo....easiest way is traversing left then back a little right to the notch. I placed my first cam (silver?) then moved a little left and found the stuck nut which isn't really usuable anymore since it is in the crack too far. Placed a purple cam I think and moved left. Continued on...climbing was easy, not much places for pro after due to rock quality, etc, but I wasn't looking too hard and easily made it to the notch. Sean for the first time told me I was getting pretty run out and should place, for the first time ever I said, I know, but it's easy and I'm basically at the notch.

Good boulder for a cordelette belay, when Sean came up he said that he didn't like seeing me run out...and I said, yeah I don't like seeing you run out either! Guess that is why it is harder to climb with your significant other...but in reality neither of us like to climb run out in general. Rappel anchor back down to the tree we belayed from is to the right of this notch.

Again, since I couldn't remember exactly what it was like to the summit which is to the lefet, we belayed and simul-climbed. We did scramble back without a rope though.

More scrambly and flat ledgy than Sean had thought it would be. Actually a little more exposure than I had remembered considering I am much better about that now than I was that long ago (still working on it too!) Up in five hours, views very hazy from all the smoke from the fires.

Headed down and while back at the tree after the first rappel we heard a HUGE sonic boom/explosion thing around 2pm or just after. No idea what that was. Definitely not rockfall and didn't sound like it came from I-90 but they are doing blasting again I guess.

Scrambled the ledge back to where we had found that crappy rappel anchor. Passed that and got to just above our start. It is blocky and 4th class but it is exposed. Sean setup a belay for me using a rock horn. I went down with the security of the rope and then he tied into the end of the rope and using the rock horn with the rope loosely around it I belayed from below and he downclimbed on a very loose belay. Pulled the rope no problem.

Climbed with my new Osprey Variant 52 pack on. Better than my other pack with its gear slings and all, but climbing with a pack is just hard for me. Kept my ice ax on and no problems, didn't get stuck anywhere.


Back to the car around 5pm I think (8.5 hours total?). Pretty relaxed day, no rushing. Definitely warm as you are mostly on open terrain.


NO WATER AVAILABLE I carried a little over 2 liters and didn't finish but was glad to have it.





Summary Total Data
Ascent Statistics
    Route:West Ridge (I led)
Descent Statistics



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