Ascent of Ingalls Peak on 2014-10-05

Climber: Patty Cokus

Date:Sunday, October 5, 2014
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Ingalls Peak
    Elevation:7662 ft / 2335 m

Ascent Trip Report

Mounty Intermediate Rock. Leader John Bell who climbed with Sue. I climbed with Jared. My first Intermediate rock climb!
East Ridge

Jared who had scrambled with friends on Sat in the area joined Sue and I at camp. John Bell hiked out after the basic climb with the basics and car camped at the trailhead.

After the approach Jared and I went first on the route as John hadn't climbed it in a very long time and had no memory of it.

pitch 1 - Jared
could have been scrambled apparently...but hey, we didn't know. Had a few moves. Belayed near the notch at the ridge.

pitch 2 - Patty
led up a bit, watch the runner to not get stuck in crack, flattish-down sloping slab to the slightly unprotectable 'stairs' did get a small probably crap piece in before it and then a nice hex on top. traversed around on right flat ledge to get to the downclimb. Tried to protect it for Jared. At base in narrow notch slung a huge boulder with my cordelette to belay.

pitch 3 - Jared
up out of notch, traversed around and up, stopped and belayed me over. We figured this was just a little low below the 'knife ridge' so Jared led out again for a short bit and belayed just before.

pitch 4 - Patty
the knife edge! I bucked up and went on the right side which had a few more features. People said left was fine too but that was more exposed. I could sling a little horn halfway across - of course as I was following Jared's style with runners over my shoulder I had a shit time getting one free and over my head...lots of swearing! Our beta said after the knife edge to go down. I went down and reached a somewhat ledge but looking over didn't quite like it. Back up a bit and traversed. Got off (a little tricky) into a sandy gully (sent a fairly large rock down which echoed and echoed) all ok. Up to underneath like a cave type thing...not in our description...hmmm, kept going and up a little bit to find the giant rock with slings on it. Back on route but probably not the right way. We figured I should have gone up from the knife edge and down the other side a bit to reach this rock. Next time...

pitch 5 - Jared
Sue actually went first on this pitch since they were in better position. We followed the ridge across like a traverse. not hard climbing but little pro.

pitch 6 - Jared
The crux pitch - the reason we carried a #5 cam... Sue led it first so she didn't have to wear the backpack! I got lots of photos of her albeit from far away. She did awesome! Jared had wanted to do the crux and did equally as well using the cam that Sue placed and John left in place so we only had to have one giant cam with us. I found it even tricky following it. Gotta trust that left foot frictioning... Summit maybe around 4:30pm?

Rapped down the basic south ridge route. picked up our packs in the boulder gully. Back to camp to pack up. Hiked out in the dark (I didn't trust my route finding and thought I made a mistake, we ended up going back and forth several times in a certain area...poor John Bell who had gone ahead as he didn't need to pack up camp and was waiting at the pass) He must have thought we were so stupid watching our headlamps go back and forth in the dark!

Oh, got to the cars around 9pm I think. Fun day and felt very satisfying!

Summary Total Data
Ascent Statistics
    Route:East Ridge (our p2, p4 the knife edge)
Descent Statistics

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