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Ascent of Dragontail Peak on 2015-03-08

Climber: Andrew Fabian

Date:Sunday, March 8, 2015
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Dragontail Peak
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:8840 ft / 2694 m

Ascent Trip Report

Summited Dragontail via the Triple Couloirs with Mark Gerber. Fantastic conditions and weather.

Low snow year, microspikes key for the approach and descent from Colchuck lake as the trail was ice.

We stayed far left at the entrance and it was really easy, just simuled through it. There was still plenty of soft snow in the couloirs but there were good steps most of the way. We simuled with pickets the first and second couloirs. Partially for safety, partially because we had the rope out, and partially because there were three groups that started right in front of and we didn't want to wait around at the base of the runnels. 5 groups on route yesterday. The first part of the runnels is still thick ice and solid, Mark even got a 22 in. The second pitch is still pretty good. The ice is pretty beat up so easier to find good sticks and good stances but it was harder to find good screw placements at least compared to what I saw from Illia's pictures, but all of the climbing was still on ice. Lots of bottoming out screws, I think the ice is getting thinner. We stayed far right for the step between the second and third couloirs. Not the easiest to protect (probably could have placed some pitons if I put in the effort) but it was really fun, alpiney, and not too hard. Had a few mixed moves. I just simuled through it and brought Mark up. 7 hours from base of route to the summit. Less than one hour back to the lake.
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