Ascent of Twin Peaks on 2014-10-28

Climber: Charlie Winger

Others in Party:Tom Wiard
George Vandersluis
Date:Tuesday, October 28, 2014
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Twin Peaks
    Elevation:10798 ft / 3291 m

Ascent Trip Report

This climb can be accessed from one of two trailheads both of which start at the end of Queen street above Ouray.
Old Twin Peaks trail: Park at the end of Queen street and head up right to find the register box and the start of the trail. Follow this trail as it climbs steeply up toward the Silvershield trail in 1.4 miles. You will encounter numerous steps and cross the stream three times. Stay to the right at anything that looks like a junction. As of October 2014 the Ouray Trail Group was in the process of putting in a new bridge which goes off to the left and down into the creek. Do not take this turn.

Oak Creek trail: From the end of Queen street turn left and follow the road as it makes two switchbacks up to the parking area at the end of the road. Two wheel drive accessible. Hike up the trail for 1.0 miles to its junction with the Twin Peaks trail. Turn right and descend down into the creek and back up the other side. Follow the trail to its junction with the Silvershield trail. This trail is longer but easier than the Old Twin Peaks trail.

Once at the Silvershield trail from either trailhead, turn left to follow the signed Twin Peaks trail for another 1.4 miles to the base of the climb.
Total elevation gain from Ouray to base of peak is ~3,000'.

Once at the base of the climb you will find two formations. The tallest is on your left. Drop your pack and do the easy scramble up the formation on your right to get a view of your route. It will have a pine tree about half-way up the face.

We split the climb up into two pitches. First pitch to the pine tree, second pitch to the summit. A single 60m rope works well.
The climbing is ~ 5.2 but is basically free soloing/scrambling. From the base of the climb to the pine tree I was only able to place a single small Alien cam (psychological pro). From the pine tree to the summit is a free climb. The rock is fractured so be very careful with hand and foot placements.

There is a large sized rock on the summit as you exit the gully. We put a sling and rappel ring around this rock to aid in the belay up and as a safety for the last climber doing the downclimb. It was not designed as a rappel anchor. When climbing up or down you are sure to dislodge small pieces of rock so helmets are a must. Same applies when pulling the rope from the summit.

Downclimb to the pine tree then use the pine tree to rappel back to the ground.

Great views. Enjoy
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:3000 ft / 914 m
    Quality:5 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Weather:Cool, Calm, Clear
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:3000 ft / 914 m
    Distance:2.4 mi / 3.9 km
    Route:trail / scramble
    Start Trailhead:7798 ft / 2376 m
Descent Statistics

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