Ascent of North Palisade on 1949-07-10

Climber: Frederick Johnson

Others in Party:Parker Severson
Tony Gamero
----Only Party on Mountain
Date:Sunday, July 10, 1949
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:North Palisade
    Elevation:13700 ft / 4175 m

Ascent Trip Report

Hiked yesterday via Black Lake and the upper Glacier Lodge to a campsite near the Palisade glacier moraine. This morning we arrived at the bergschrund around 8:30AM, hoping for a straightforward climb up to the U Notch (13,000') and then the final push to the summit. We experienced considerable delay in overcoming the bergschrund and our progress from there climbing up the icy slope to the U Notch was unacceptably slow owing to difficulty en route. By noon we were still about 200' below the U Notch. After careful consideration of the terrain, we decided not to proceed further. We descended slowly to the glacier, returned to our campsite, hiked out to the cars at the TH above Glacier Lodge (7:00PM), and drove back to Los Angeles.
Summary Total Data
    Grade/Class:Class 3-4
    Quality:6 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Exposed Scramble, Ice Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Tent Camp
    Weather:Pleasant, Calm, Clear
Ideal weather
Ascent Statistics
    Route:Palisade Glacier-U Notch
Descent Statistics
    Route:U Notch-Palisade Glacier

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