Ascent to Mount Langley-N. face, 1000' below summit on 2014-06-12

Climber: Vic Hanson

Other People:Solo Ascent
Only Party on Mountain
Date:Thursday, June 12, 2014
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Motorcycle
Point Reached:Mount Langley - N. face, 1000' below summit
    Elevation:13089 ft / 3989 m
    Remaining Elevation:937 ft / 286 m (13% left to go)

Ascent Trip Report

I had climbed Langley last year by the normal New Army Pass route but wanted to try a more challenging route, starting from the Tuttle Creek TH that shows up on Google Maps. However the route they show goes up to the left of Tuttle Creek and I didn't see any sign of a trail there. I realized later that climbers had probably been going up a steep slope just before the trail crosses the creek, before the Ashram. Anyway, I went on to the Ashram and found a good use trail above that that continues on up on the right side of Tuttle Creek. The trail is fairly good and easy to follow at first, then as you get past the shear rock wall on the right it gets harder to follow but is marked with cairns. A ways after crossing to the left side of the creek there is a chute that goes up to the ridge west of Langley and joins up with the trail marked on Google. To do this, stay to the left of the big rock slabs and follow the gully. I went up and around the right side of a minor peak and then up to a point north of the summit. At this point it turned into class 3 scrambling and at just over 13,000 feet I had to turn around as it was getting late and I was an hour past my initial turn around time. There were also dark clouds rolling in and I wasn't prepared to bivy on the mountain. I hadn't reached anything impassable yet but it was getting to the point that it would have been nice to have had a climbing partner, so it wasn't too hard to have to turn around and head down. There were a few sprinkles on the way down but it never rained and I reached the trailhead before dark. Total time was 11 hrs. 50 min.

A Strava GPS track of the trip is available here:
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:6154 ft / 1875 m
    Total Elevation Loss:6154 ft / 1875 m
    Round-Trip Distance:10.5 mi / 16.9 km
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble
    Weather:Pleasant, Clear
Sunny, turning cloudly late afternoon.
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:6154 ft / 1875 m
    Distance:5.2 mi / 8.4 km
    Route:Tuttle Creek Tr.,
    Start Trailhead:Tuttle Creek TH  6935 ft / 2113 m
Descent Statistics
    Loss on way out:6154 ft / 1875 m
    Distance:5.3 mi / 8.5 km
    Route:Tuttle Creek Tr.,
    End Trailhead:Tuttle Creek TH  6935 ft / 2113 m

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