Ascent of Twin Peaks on 2013-12-13

Climber: Paul Barish

Date:Friday, December 13, 2013
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Twin Peaks
    Elevation:13333 ft / 4063 m

Ascent Trip Report

The original plan for the day was for my friend and I to make an attempt on the east ridge of Mt Hope but we couldn't get the truck within four miles of the trailhead. This could have been doable if we started early but we wanted to be on the summit by 12 at the latest so we decided on a smaller objective. So we drove over to the Twin Peak campground and parked at the gate closure. We hiked through the campground and progressed through the trees. The snow conditions were frustrating as we post holed very deep on steep terrain. Eventually we broke treeline below a large avalanche chute between East and West Twin Peaks. The eastern most of the Twin Peaks looked more interesting so we crossed over the chute (which had extremely solid snow pack) and followed a narrow snow ribbon up the north face. Eventually we started breaking through the crust so we veered of onto the talus. We continued on the north facing talus and 3rd class rock up to the summit ridge where we were greeted by the first rays of sunlight all day. The ridge was only second class but exposed. It was just a few minutes until we arrived on the small summit in beautiful weather. There was not a cloud in the sky and we had spectacular views in all directions. The ridge over to West Twin Peak looked incredible but my climbing partners foot was cold and was not warming back up so we decided to descend. Since the snow pack was so good in the avalanche chute we decided to glisade down it. During the glisade after about 1000 vertical feet we were moving pretty quickly. During the glisade there was a big rock just under the snow and I slammed right into it. It stopped all my momentum all at once. (I found out later that I cracked a bone in my pelvis) I took a minute laying on my stomach and then continued descending. I had a lot of trouble moving my left leg and there was excruciating pain shooting through my groin, butt and lower leg. We continued to descend and instead of following our ascent route we took a more direct route all the way down the avalanche chute into treeline and eventually came out on the road about 300 yard from the truck. After some digging to get the truck out of where the snow plowed we were on our way back to Leadville feeling accomplished.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Open Country, Bushwhack, Stream Ford, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Ski Poles, Snowshoes
Ascent Statistics
    Route:North Face
Descent Statistics

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