Ascent of Corteo Peak on 2013-10-20

Climber: Franklin Bradshaw

Date:Sunday, October 20, 2013
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Corteo Peak
    Elevation:8080 ft / 2462 m

Ascent Trip Report

From Maple Pass traverse past Horsefly Pass and up and across East face. At 6900' gain East Rib. Ascend to 100' below summit (on rock and some dodging out onto east face. Final 100' on summit block, direct up east face.
12-18" snow. Not bonded to rock. Slow going over boulder field with post-holing between hidden boulders. Rib up was a mix of soft snow, breaking snow and rock. Best was the wet, black lichen down sloping. Cruxes entailed snow too shallow to use to anchor. Took much time to remove snow to get to see what the rock was at several cruxes... Not the best snow conditions in the early fall for this route.

No rope, so started down SW Ridge (easy cl 2-3) then hook a left down the South Gulley and at 7000' traverse CCW back to East Face between cliff banks. The new season snow made for slow and arduous going.
Stunning views and the larch in full brilliant oranges.

If I did the same route again, I'd take a few small nuts (#5-12) and a scramble rope. Found a very old rap sling at about 7600' above one of the three cruxes we passed.

4h40m up, 3h40m down
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Open Country, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe
Ascent Statistics
    Route:East Face, East Rib
    Start Trailhead:Rainey Pass  
Descent Statistics
    Route:South East gulley
    End Trailhead:Car  

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