Ascent of Jack Mountain on 2013-09-01

Climber: Sean Albert

Date:Sunday, September 1, 2013
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Jack Mountain
    Elevation:9066 ft / 2763 m

Ascent Trip Report

Jack Mountain one of Washington's 9000 foot peaks and a stand alone Bulger peak in the Western Pasayten Wilderness.

Day 1 the six of us (Mountaineers trip) met at the P and R at 5:45am and headed for the Canyon Creek TH just East of Ross Lake on Route 20. We left the TH (1900ft.) at 9:30 am and started to climb towards the Crater Mt. tarn. Tons of switchbacks. We reached the lake and backtracked to the spur trail that leads to a 7100ft. saddle at the Eastern end of the Jerry glacier. We reached the saddle around 3pm (5.5 hours). Above a glacial lake not on the map below the Eastern Jerry glacier (mostly gone now) and our first views of Jack in the distance. We descended loose scree and rocky ramps down into the a rocky basin and traversed around the East side of the lake, up over slabs, through the boulder field below the glacier, and up to a saddle North of the glacier and south of Jerry Lakes. Down to the lakes to set up camp.

Day 2, left camp about 6am and gained the saddle on the ridge above Jerry Lakes N.E. of point 6629. Our route would be the South Face. We traversed climbers left across the first snow patch under the face to a dirty red bench just to the right of the higher snow patch shaped like a lobster claw. Shortly after the bench there is a small overhang/cave, turn right after this overhang up blocky rock to a ledge which is just below the 4th class step, the rap station is just above this section. Lots of steep open terrain (steep loose class 2 and some 3) the rest of the way, just go the easiest way to gain the ridge. Then a short traverse on West ridge just below the summit. Reached the summit at noon (6 hrs. from camp) Don't think I'll be back here for a little while, but spectacular views of North Cascades. Good cell phone reception allowed for a status update to home. We spent 1/2 hour on top with no wind, found a camera left by the other party of four on the summit that day. Back down the loose gullies. It was extremely hard not to knock rocks down, not a good place for more than three or four people, but we managed it very well as a large party. We located the correct rap station (not visible until you standing next to it) since we took the (wrong) climbers left route rather than right just after the red knob. Tricked by some tat. I didn't take a photo, wish I had, of the one rap station we used. A broken rock held together by a piece of webbing. It was only 40 ft. but a sketchy anchor. One 30 M rope will do. We made it back to camp at 6:30pm, 12.5 hours camp to camp. Jumped into the Lake as fast as possible.

Day 3, hike out. Middle Jerry Lake before sunrise. Left camp at 7:30am. The rain held out and we reached the cars at 1pm, 5.5 hours from camp. Over 11,000 ft. gain for the trip. Burgers at Mondo and shakes at Cascadian Farms to follow.
Summary Total Data
    Total Elevation Gain:11400 ft / 3474 m
    Total Elevation Loss:4234 ft / 1290 m
Ascent Statistics
    Gain on way in:11400 ft / 3474 m
        Gain Breakdown:Net: 7166 ft / 2184 m; Extra: 4234 ft / 1290m
    Loss on way in:4234 ft / 1290 m
    Route:South Face
    Start Trailhead:1900 ft / 579 m
Descent Statistics

This page has been served 965 times since 2005-01-15.

Copyright © 1987-2019 by All Rights Reserved. Questions/Comments/Corrections? See the Contact Page Terms of Service